Breakdowns on the way to a holiday or long weekend rarely come from bad luck. Most start as small, visible issues – low tyre pressure, a loose battery terminal, a warning light that was easy to ignore, or a fluid level that drifted down over weeks. A short, repeatable routine before a long drive catches the common failure points while there is still time to fix them at home.
What to gather (and why it matters)
This routine works with basic tools and the equipment most SUVs already have. The goal is to confirm that the vehicle can stop, steer, cool itself, and charge its battery under sustained motorway speeds and heavy luggage loads.
- Tire pressure gauge (digital or dial) for accurate readings
- Air source (home compressor, petrol station air, or portable inflator)
- Torch to spot leaks and tread damage
- Paper towel or rag to check fluids cleanly
- Gloves for handling hot or dirty parts
Minutes 0-5: Tyres, wheels, and the touch test
Tyres are the most frequent cause of road-trip trouble because they are easy to underinflate, easy to overload, and sensitive to temperature changes. Before loading the last bags, check pressures when tyres are cold.
- Set pressure to the door-jamb sticker, and use the loaded specification if the SUV will be full of passengers and cargo.
- Scan for sidewall bulges, cuts, or cords. Any exposed fabric means the tyre is done.
- Check tread depth quickly. If the grooves are shallow or uneven across the tyre, traction and braking distance will suffer in rain.
- Look at the valve stems. Cracked rubber or missing caps increases slow leaks.
- Do a lug-nut glance. Missing lug nuts or fresh rust streaks around a wheel can indicate loosening.
Spare tyre note: if the SUV has a full-size spare underneath, confirm it is inflated. A spare at half pressure is a flat waiting to happen. If the vehicle uses a tyre repair kit instead, confirm the sealant is in date and the inflator works.
Minutes 5-9: Fluids that keep the engine alive
On a long drive, an engine runs hot for hours. Low fluids increase the chance of overheating or internal wear-both expensive and avoidable.
- Engine oil: check the dipstick on level ground. If low, top up with the correct grade. Avoid overfilling.
- Coolant: inspect the reservoir level (never open a hot radiator cap). Low coolant plus a long climb can trigger overheating.
- Brake fluid: a low reservoir may point to worn pads or a leak. Brakes should not be topped off repeatedly without finding the reason.
- Windscreen washer: motorway grime and winter salt will empty a tank quickly; poor visibility is a safety issue, not a comfort issue.
- Transmission/steering (if applicable): some SUVs have serviceable reservoirs; others are sealed. If there is a reservoir, check for minimum/maximum marks.
While the bonnet is open, look for obvious leaks: wet hoses, green/pink crust near coolant joints, oily residue around the engine, or a damp patch beneath the vehicle.
Minutes 9-12: Battery, belts, and warning lights
Many sudden no-start situations are actually weak batteries that were struggling for weeks. Heat and long accessory use (charging devices, running fans) can tip a marginal battery over the edge.
- Battery terminals: confirm they are tight and free of heavy white/blue corrosion.
- Drive belt glance: look for cracks, fraying, or a glossy shiny surface that can slip.
- Start-up check: turn the ignition on and ensure warning lights appear briefly, then go out after the engine starts. A persistent battery, oil, temperature, ABS, or engine light should be addressed before the trip.
If a warning light is on, do not assume it is just a sensor. A scan at a local parts shop or garage is faster than dealing with limp mode on a motorway shoulder.
Minutes 12-15: Load, visibility, and a quick road feel
SUVs often carry more weight than expected – coolers, prams, sports kit, roof boxes. Overloading stresses tyres and brakes and can make steering vague.
- Secure cargo: heavy items low and forward, nothing loose that can fly forward under braking.
- Mirrors and lights: confirm indicators, brake lights, and headlamps work. A quick walk-around takes seconds.
- Wipers: if the blades smear or chatter, replace them. Rain at speed is unforgiving.
- Parking brake and pedal feel: brake pedal should be firm, not spongy; parking brake should hold on a slight incline.
Finally, drive a short loop around the block before committing to the motorway. Listen for scraping, grinding, or rhythmic thumps. Notice steering pull, vibrations, or a brake that shudders.
When to postpone the trip (and get it checked)
Some findings are monitor and plan service. Others are do not drive long distance today. A cautious call at home is cheaper than a tow.
- Coolant level dropping repeatedly or visible coolant leaks
- Oil warning light, temperature warning, or flashing check-engine light
- Tyre sidewall damage, cords showing, or a tyre that will not hold pressure
- Burning smell, brake pedal sinking, or fluid on the inside of a wheel
- Severe steering vibration, new clunks over bumps, or wobble at speed
Next steps (make this routine stick)
To turn this into a reliable habit, keep a small kit (gauge, gloves, torch) in the boot and set a calendar reminder for the day before any drive longer than an hour. If anything is borderline tyres near wear bars, oil consumption, weak battery book a service appointment before the next trip rather than after a warning becomes a failure.
On the morning of departure: re-check tyre pressures, confirm fuel level, and start the engine a few minutes early to ensure it idles smoothly. A consistent 15-minute routine beats a surprise breakdown every time.